The meat should be pale pink, close-grained and firm to the touch. It should not have enlarged glands or abscesses (pigs kept too close together, reasonably enough, bite eachother). The fat should be firm and white, not oily, and without grayish tinge. There should be an even covering of fat. Try to find free-range pork; it has an excellent flavour.

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Excerpt from Leiths Cookery Bible

[Leith, P., and Waldegrave, C., (2003), Leiths Cookery Bible, 3rd edition, Bloomburys, UK]